12/30 DAY 12 Krakow
The train arrived about 25 minutes late into the Krakow station. It wasn’t very obvious that we were there. I got up

Kraków’s train station needs an extended lesson in charm school, because the place is grim. The Irish lads cussed as they got off the train, wondering what they had got themselves into.

It was 6:00 am. Nothing was open. The train station was sooty.

I had good luck and bad luck immediately. The good was that I found a Bankomat and was able to withdraw some money. Oh! And it spit out what I thought was a relatively low bill—a 50 zl (or $13) bill. No sweat, I thought, I’ll just buy a bagel and have money to pay the 8 zl for me to store my luggage for the morning.

The bagel woman eyed my 50 zl note as if it were a $100 bill. OK. I’ll try buying something more expensive. I bought some smokes for $2. The woman stared at the bill, as well. Fudge. She said “szczkyzkszszcz czszysc szscszsczsszczszsc Konto”

OK. I’ll try the exchange office, honey.

I gave the man at the Konto the bill and made a chop chop sign (rudimentary sign language, Chris.) He huffed some air and gave me 5 ten zloty bills. Thanks, buddy.

Now I just need some change as the lockers only except change. I went back to the first old woman who was pushing off $.22 bagels. (I’ll mention these women soon.) I bought some apple juice and she gave me the change was enough for the

But then, I didn’t have change to use the restrooms… But they broke my 10 zl bill and I could make use of their facilities.

I bid farewell to my crazy new Irish friends and searched for the McDonalds, as I remembered from the last time in Poland that they are open early.

COLD, DARK MORNING WALK

At 6:30, the only people awake on the streets were street cleaners. Nothing was open. I found a sign for McDonalds, but never did find the one indicated on the sign. I walked around for about 45 minutes trying to find a McDonalds and found one at 7:14 am. The door was open. Thanks be to God in Heaven on High.

Polish is comfy. Within a few minutes, I was chomping on early morning Big Mac and fries. I hung out there for about an hour as it was really cold and rainy out. (I think cold rain is worse than snow.)

OK. It was 8:15. I thought I’d find my hotel and beg them to let me into my room early as sometimes a tired American face works. It took me 45 minutes to walk to find the hotel.

Oh, by the way, at this point I believe I had walked approximately 5 or so miles. My laptop was getting heavy. My leg actually hurt a bit.

The cute person at the reception told me, with a smile, that I should come back at 12:00. Ok, then.

To avoid the cold, I found an Internet café where they spoke no English. I pulled out my laptop and pointed to my Ethernet connection. They sat me at a table and soon I was paying bills, blogging and surfing the net. Two hours later, I paid the equivalent of $1.33 and ventured back into the cold.

I wondered around for some time, got my luggage, checked in and napped. The hotel and room are extremely nice and there is a friendly staff. I’m paying a bit more for it.

LATER ON

For dinner, I looked for packed places, which is usually a good sign. I came across a place that had Gyros. I had a stuffed Gyros sandwich and a delicious, fresh salad with goat cheese, olives, lettuce, cabbage and onions. Good stuff. $6 USD and I was totally stuffed.

I walked around the city and bought some more postcards to send home. For all that I ragged on the train station and surrounding areas, this city really is kinda magical. And I don’t use that word lightly.

There is so much history and beauty. Unlike Prague, it’s not “in your face pretty.” More subtle. Krakow is like the Sandra Bullock of Europe, where as Prague would be Jessica Parker Simpson. Oh, and Paris would be even more uppity Celion Dion. Know what I mean?

Later on that night, I walked over the bridge and caught the moon over the Wawel castle which was lit up in lights; the pride of Poland. It was so beautiful. I was actually moved by the moment.

LATE NIGHT: 7s.

I went to a bar near my hotel called simply “7.”

Smoking is kind of a social event and that’s why it’s useful in Europe. How so? You can meet people by offering a light. And you can also offer a small gesture of friendship though a cigarette.

Note: I’m a bad smoker. I forget to do it. It just doesn’t enter my mind and it took me a week to go through my original pack of Czech Lucky Strikes. And that was with giving a lot of them out.

I met Janusz and Dominik. Dominik is a 24 year old classical music composer. Not sure what Janusz does. Janusz speaks German and Dominik English. They spoke Polish together.

Behind the bar, I saw some Jack Daniels. I offered a shot to each of them as a gesture of friendship from “my part of the world.” (The shots were about $3 apiece. Not bad, for foreign stuff.)

Did you know that you can pour vodka into beer?
- posted by Matt @ 12:22 PM