12/31 Day 13 NEW YEAR’S EVE
I woke up around 8:00 am and looked into the mirror. I looked most rugged and tired.

After throwing on some smoky clothes, I walked to the elevator. A 50ish woman was there and I said the obligatory “Dzien dobry.” She said “Guten Morgen.” We then had a brief discussion about Kraków, in German. The kind woman said that I would have a fun time in Riga and Vilnius. She had been to these places before. She was intrigued about my plans and that I was traveling alone.

After a pleasant breakfast, I went shopping, trying to rid myself of Zloty and to support the local economy through the trickle down effect. Actually, I found a lot of cool stuff! I bought some stuff for friends back home and some clothes for myself.

To rest my legs, I sat on a park bench and people watched. A small child, the same age as Mats, approached me, smiling fiercely. The father was a bit embarrassed. I smiled back at the kid. I would make a great father.


Krakow’s Market place

iPod in place, I walked to the market square, which is the largest in Europe, if I read correctly. On one side, there is a Christmas market. On the other, they are preparing for live music and/or a DJ for New Year’s Eve. It’s going to be sponsored by one of the Polish TV stations and they are going all out. There is a large stage and there are monitors set up. They even have a mechanical dragon (a dragon being a part of Kraków folklore.) I had attended something similar in Berlin in 1998 and it was a blast. This is probably where I will be at midnight.


Aweful pic. You can see the stage for the band behind me and even the “high platform.”

THE STING: OPERATION “TRUFFLES”


Wawel Castle

I was relaxing at the park near Wawel castle and I thought about it being the holidays. Somehow, the idea sparked to give candy out to the bagel women (i.e. women that stand by a card selling bagels.) To make ends meet, dozens and dozens of these woman, usually elderly woman, sell wide bagels for about $0.25 apiece. They usually look cold and/or bored to me and I thought it would be fun to make their day.

I decided that I would buy some candy for them. I found a delicatessen that sold one of my favorite truffles that would be prohibitively expensive for them.

I ate lunch then I decided to go back to the train station, count heads of all the bagel women there and give each of them a box of truffles. I did so, saying “Dosiego Roku.” (Happy new year!) There were a lot of smiling faces, which warmed me.

Oh. While at the train station, I noticed there was a mass migration into the city. The market square will be full tonight.

A month ago, I had actually picked up a pedometer in Wal*mart and considered buying it. I really should have. I would not be surprised if walking in the last days has exceeded 25 or 30 miles, as that is what I’ve been doing the majority of the time. I literally have walked so much that my Old Navy bag is ripping apart.

NEW YEAR'S EVE

After my nap, I primped and headed to “7,” a friendly bar near my hotel
At the door, the man had a registry and blurted out something in Polish. Thankfully, a man behind me translated what he said, in French. I could go in, but I’d not have a reserved table. OK.

I sat at the bar and nursed a delicious beer.

A quite annoying 20s something man with heavy acne insisted on talking with me. I had made eye contact with a pretty lesbian couple that sat on the other side from me.

“Jak sie mas,” I asked. That broke the ice. After I told them that I was alone, Katrina and her girlfriend told me that they would adopt me for the night. And they did. We talked for hours and hours in German.


My ladies and me

They are lovely people and make a really pretty, romantic couple. Amazingly, they actually met in Tunisia, on vacation. Two women. One with her girlfriend, the other with a husband and kids. They fell in love at first sight. Now, although they live in different cities, they see each other every weekend and traveled to Krakow for the weekend.

We agreed that we would leave around 11:30 to go to the market place to see what was happening.

We left at 11:45 and ran to the plaza. I said to them “fest halten,” hold on tight. The annoying acne man had told me earlier that there would be more than 150,000 people in the square, that it would be one of the largest celebrations in Europe. The place was packed you could barely move.

We made it about 20 feet short of the square when midnight came. They kissed one another, then I kissed them.

The night was clear and fresh. Fireworks and champagne bottles popped everywhere. You could smell the sulphur from the fireworks. The night was mixed with music, the sounds of breaking glass and people screaming happy new year. People embraced one another and danced and drank and celebrated.

The architecture combined with the fireworks and festive mood created an atmosphere that I will treasure. The only way it would have been better if a certain someone were with me.

It was incredibly romantic and beautiful. The couple caught on and kissed several times. I told them that I was their security blanket and they soaked up the moment together and had many tender moments.

My women wanted to get closer to the stage. We grabbed on to each other and their pushed our way through the crowd. They wanted to get closer to the action.

Two stages were set up. One stage was attached to the Cloth Market, high above, on construction stilts. Jutting out from the main stage was catwalk that came out into the crowd.

On each of these long stages, there were professional dancers who, with extreme graciousness danced the night away. The dancers must have been models as all of them were drop dead gorgeous. Fine specimens indeed.

A popular Polish pop singer appeared on the main stage and sang some hits. One song was really popular and we all jumped up and down. Nope. I didn’t know the words to the songs. But the crowd did and loved it. Surprisingly, they did not clap after each song. Pacifist group.

The large TV screen showed the singer, the crowd and the dancers. The production was incredibly sophisticated, hi-tech and well planed out.

Earlier in the day, I had bought a bottle of apple flavored vodka. Really good stuff! My women didn’t take too much of it, but I passed it around to people—mostly students in the crowd,. Don’t worry. The alcohol kills germs and bacteria. Germophobes need not visit Europe. Trust me.

Oh, the 500 ml bottle was a third full this morning.

We returned to “7” and continued to party. After dancing a bit, my women were beat and bid their farewell. I talked with a nice couple from Berlin, who of course, spoke German and not English.

When I got back to my hotel, I looked at my watch. I tapped it, thinking it was wrong. No. It couldn’t have been 6:00 am. I grabbed my useless alarm clock. It said the 6:00 am.

I need to do something unnecessarily drastic to the alarm clock because it is such a **** to me. Ideas? Throw into the Vlatava? Place on train tracks? Burn with my lighter? Hmm. Nothing can describe my distain for this Wal*Mart product and it will go down. Go down bad.
- posted by Matt @ 12:24 PM 0 comments

 
12/30 DAY 12 Krakow
The train arrived about 25 minutes late into the Krakow station. It wasn’t very obvious that we were there. I got up

Kraków’s train station needs an extended lesson in charm school, because the place is grim. The Irish lads cussed as they got off the train, wondering what they had got themselves into.

It was 6:00 am. Nothing was open. The train station was sooty.

I had good luck and bad luck immediately. The good was that I found a Bankomat and was able to withdraw some money. Oh! And it spit out what I thought was a relatively low bill—a 50 zl (or $13) bill. No sweat, I thought, I’ll just buy a bagel and have money to pay the 8 zl for me to store my luggage for the morning.

The bagel woman eyed my 50 zl note as if it were a $100 bill. OK. I’ll try buying something more expensive. I bought some smokes for $2. The woman stared at the bill, as well. Fudge. She said “szczkyzkszszcz czszysc szscszsczsszczszsc Konto”

OK. I’ll try the exchange office, honey.

I gave the man at the Konto the bill and made a chop chop sign (rudimentary sign language, Chris.) He huffed some air and gave me 5 ten zloty bills. Thanks, buddy.

Now I just need some change as the lockers only except change. I went back to the first old woman who was pushing off $.22 bagels. (I’ll mention these women soon.) I bought some apple juice and she gave me the change was enough for the

But then, I didn’t have change to use the restrooms… But they broke my 10 zl bill and I could make use of their facilities.

I bid farewell to my crazy new Irish friends and searched for the McDonalds, as I remembered from the last time in Poland that they are open early.

COLD, DARK MORNING WALK

At 6:30, the only people awake on the streets were street cleaners. Nothing was open. I found a sign for McDonalds, but never did find the one indicated on the sign. I walked around for about 45 minutes trying to find a McDonalds and found one at 7:14 am. The door was open. Thanks be to God in Heaven on High.

Polish is comfy. Within a few minutes, I was chomping on early morning Big Mac and fries. I hung out there for about an hour as it was really cold and rainy out. (I think cold rain is worse than snow.)

OK. It was 8:15. I thought I’d find my hotel and beg them to let me into my room early as sometimes a tired American face works. It took me 45 minutes to walk to find the hotel.

Oh, by the way, at this point I believe I had walked approximately 5 or so miles. My laptop was getting heavy. My leg actually hurt a bit.

The cute person at the reception told me, with a smile, that I should come back at 12:00. Ok, then.

To avoid the cold, I found an Internet café where they spoke no English. I pulled out my laptop and pointed to my Ethernet connection. They sat me at a table and soon I was paying bills, blogging and surfing the net. Two hours later, I paid the equivalent of $1.33 and ventured back into the cold.

I wondered around for some time, got my luggage, checked in and napped. The hotel and room are extremely nice and there is a friendly staff. I’m paying a bit more for it.

LATER ON

For dinner, I looked for packed places, which is usually a good sign. I came across a place that had Gyros. I had a stuffed Gyros sandwich and a delicious, fresh salad with goat cheese, olives, lettuce, cabbage and onions. Good stuff. $6 USD and I was totally stuffed.

I walked around the city and bought some more postcards to send home. For all that I ragged on the train station and surrounding areas, this city really is kinda magical. And I don’t use that word lightly.

There is so much history and beauty. Unlike Prague, it’s not “in your face pretty.” More subtle. Krakow is like the Sandra Bullock of Europe, where as Prague would be Jessica Parker Simpson. Oh, and Paris would be even more uppity Celion Dion. Know what I mean?

Later on that night, I walked over the bridge and caught the moon over the Wawel castle which was lit up in lights; the pride of Poland. It was so beautiful. I was actually moved by the moment.

LATE NIGHT: 7s.

I went to a bar near my hotel called simply “7.”

Smoking is kind of a social event and that’s why it’s useful in Europe. How so? You can meet people by offering a light. And you can also offer a small gesture of friendship though a cigarette.

Note: I’m a bad smoker. I forget to do it. It just doesn’t enter my mind and it took me a week to go through my original pack of Czech Lucky Strikes. And that was with giving a lot of them out.

I met Janusz and Dominik. Dominik is a 24 year old classical music composer. Not sure what Janusz does. Janusz speaks German and Dominik English. They spoke Polish together.

Behind the bar, I saw some Jack Daniels. I offered a shot to each of them as a gesture of friendship from “my part of the world.” (The shots were about $3 apiece. Not bad, for foreign stuff.)

Did you know that you can pour vodka into beer?
- posted by Matt @ 12:22 PM 0 comments

 
12/27 DAY 8: FLIGHT TO PILSEN, PILSEN
I woke up and immediately took a bath/shower and met Peter and Marita downstairs at about 6:00 am. I felt bad asking them to get up so early. They said it was like a normal work day. Julia and Sören came downstairs to briefly say goodbye.

I bid my farewell and Peter’s vehicle raced off toward the Hanover airport. Oh, as we got into the vehicle, “Sweet Home Alabama” played on the classic rock station that Peter likes. I thought of Kevin.

At the airport, the agent at the Czech airlines greeted me. I gave her the ticket and talked some of the details, in German. She was surprised by my US passport. In German, she said “Do you live in the United States?” A tad confused, she liked my German and asked why it was so good. “Familie,” I answered. I’ll take the compliment.

‘Twas an uneventful flight. My seat was on the emergency exit at the extreme front of the plane. The stewardess, a pretty early 30s brunette woman, sat next to me. I asked if she lived in Prague. She did. I told her I was going to Pilsen and she told me she approved of my decision. She got up to serve the passengers.

After hauling her cart to the front of the plane, she served me first with her cart. She smiled and said “would you like to try the beer from Pilsen?”

Actually, I was considering a coffee and a gaseous mineral water.

“Sure,” I said.

Before we landed, as she was asking people to put up their tray tables, she asked if I wanted a beer for the road. I declined this generous offer, then wondered why I did.

As we landed, the stewardess and I talked about her city and I asked her the best way to get to the train station from the airport (Bus 119 to the “A” line on the metro. Take the “A” line to the Muzeum stop then walk 4 blocks to hl.n. station.) This way would cost me $0.50 USD compared to the $30.00 USD I had paid to get to the hotel last time, by taxi.

I had no problem getting to the train station and I even managed to negotiate a first class train ticket to Pilsen, in Czech.

Forty minutes later, I was in the train, going a whopping 40 MPH to Pilsen. I had a cabin to myself and listened to some light Robbie Williams jazz. The swaying of the train put me to sleep.

PILSEN

Thankfully, I woke up just before the Pilsen station, about 1:00 pm. I immediately noticed that Pilsen is not as “polished” as Prague. The train station was very ugly. It was snowing a bit. The area around the train was grey and the sky and even the snow seemed a bit grey. Not the best first impression.

My hotel is Hotel Morrison, which is, of course, named after the immortal Jim Morrison. My room is a sloped attic room with a skylight and a large, clean bathroom. Again, not the most “polished,” but clean and the owners are extremely friendly.

EATS

I was a bit hungry for a snack. On the main boulevard, I found two fast food places. On one side were the golden arches, on the other “Big Burger.” I asked myself, I can’t get “Big Burger” at home. Why not, dang it?

I ordered the value meal #3 by putting 3 fingers in the air and pointing to the sign. The chubby woman looked up to see what I was pointing at. She mentioned something in gibberish/Czech and I said “Anno.” Yepper. Set me up, honey.

I was hoping for something delicious. What I got was a breaded, deep fried hamburger (!) with an extra large portion of cabbage and mayo between two halves of a rather nice bun.

I tasted it and, as it turned out, it was not so delicious, after all. The deep fried burger was kind of slimy in the middle and the fries were icky. I finished the burger and ventured into the cold.

I walked the city without a plan as I couldn’t find a place that would sell tourist stuff. Oh, well.

Pilsen does not offer very much in English, like Prague. Fortunately, when I’ve really needed to talk something, such as in the hotel, there have been people to speak German and NOT English, which is a bit surprising.

MORE EATS

But, as you’d figure, sometimes, you don’t even find German. For example, I ate dinner at a modern place called “Jazz Rock Dominik Café.” No German menu so, I used my imagination. I finally decided on “Smazena Kurecí Kapsa pnena sunkou a syrem obloha” as it sounded pretty dang tasty. (To be fair, I I remembered Kureci as being chicken—from earlier in the trip.)

The mystery meal ended up being chicken cordon bleu with a miniature salad and French fries. Delicious and nutricious.


Pilsen main square


Pilsen tourist shopping district

LATE NIGHT FUNNIES

I walked back to my hotel. The hotel offers a bar with 6 or so tables and a large poster of Jim Morrison.

“Prosím. Pivo a Becherovka,” I blurted out. The woman bartender, sporting a short cropped, poorly dyed orangish hair brought back a tall glass, bottle of Budweis beer (the real one) and a shot glass of my favorate herbal Czech drink. The one that I was told was a “chick drink.” Well, I like it.

Blaring on the TV was what appeared to be a popular variety show, in Czech, naturally. The 50s man at one point was talking with a nun, who had a look of disgust. Once, I recognized the nun said something about the “mister of culture.” A decision was made on the part of the show’s producers to pan into the audience, some members of which were laughing enthusiastically. One older woman in the audience even had tears in her eyes from laughing so hard.

The woman bartender and I shared the bar and both glared at the TV. Like me, she smoked a cigarette. But, unlike me, she was a full fledged Czech citizen and understood the show.

So why the sour look, blank look on her face? This stuff was HILLARIOUS!

I paid, wished her a good night. Took a bath and went to bed early.
- posted by Matt @ 2:29 PM 0 comments

 
12/26 DAY 7: DAS GROßE FRESSEN III (PIGGING OUT III)
I woke up hungry—not—after enduring several marathon sessions of eating/drinking at the Balke’s house.

The immediate family (including aunts and uncles) all met at Schmittel’s house at 2:00 on Sunday, the second day of Christmas, for a Christmas Shin Dig.


Birgitt and Hortst-Dieter Schmittel

Schmittel had spend many, many hours preparing a beautiful Christmas dinner for the family, which included some very fancy food, including duck and knödel (dumplings,) which I really enjoyed.

In my normal blog, I had mentioned that my favorite Christmas song is Lo, How a Rose E’er Blooming. Birgitt was playing some Christmas music and lo and behold (no pun intended), the song came on. Oma hummed it, which kind of touched me. I promised her I’d send her a CD with the rendition from the Men’s Chorus of Los Angeles that I like so much.


Mats, Sören and Julia in front of Schmittel’s tree

Opa wasn’t there which was too bad. He wasn’t feeling all that well. He had gotten sick because of eating too much sugar free candy that I had given him. He is completely bored in life because he worked his entire life and has no real hobbies, so, although I felt bad for causing a problem, I was happy that he had enjoyed my present of American candy. (Julia says he’s the worst person to buy for.)

MY COOKING

To celebrate Christmas, I was asked if I could make my famous eggnog (that I had prepared for the family, in Denmark 10 years prior.)

I was so nervous cooking in Marita’s kitchen as it’s literally a foreign one. I worried I would destroy something in her flawless kitchen or worried I would mis-recycle or that I would screw up the recipe.

Sure enough. I did screw up the recipe. Instead of beating the egg YOLKS, I beat the egg WHITES. So I had to throw away the first mixture and start over again. The second time worked but it only made a small bowl, which was not ideal for serving to the 10 or so of us at the family party.

I also made a Mexican Delight (layered dip) from my grandmother Wilke’s recipe (although I add a meat layer, too!) I had imported the refried beans and Chips. I managed to find the correct taco seasoning and a similar sour cream. Also I got a thing of guacamole, salsa and even “canned” jalapeño peppers. I was really worried that there wouldn’t be enough flavor, so I put a generous amount of jalapeños into the meat mix.

I brought a small teaspoon into the living room for Julia to taste. She immediately said, “yumm.” Then the look on her face changed. “Oh, my God, Matt. That’s spicy. Get me some water! Quick!”

I brought he back a small glass and mineral water from the kitchen. She immediately grabbed for it and gulped some down.

I think she had a bit of irritation/pain in that one area, and I told her this. She was not amused and responded by saying that it was very mean of me to give her something so hot/spicy. She was pissed off and was coolish for me for the next couple of hours.

Upstairs, as I waited two hours for Julia to primp in the bathroom, I was worried that I had wasted all of that time/money on a dip that nobody would eat. To give you an idea of how expensive Germany is and how bad the US/Dollar exchange rate is, it cost me almost $80.00 USD in order to make the egg nog and dip.

VERDICT: MY COOKING OK

So, Sunday afternoon, I finally had the opportunity to serve my cooked goods. The eggnog really went over well, both grandmothers loved it. Birgitt even passed around spoons for people to get the last bit of foamy nutmeg off the bottom of the glasses.

The Mexican dip also was a hit, although Torsten, Jessica’s boyfriend didn’t eat too much of it, as claimed it was too hot. Pain/irritation?

Heat or not, the food on the plate disappeared quickly. The 9 inch plate was scraped clean and eaten.


Birgitt, Julia and I in the kitchen prepping the eggnog
- posted by Matt @ 9:29 AM 0 comments

 
12/25 DAY 6: FIRST DAY OF CHRISTMAS, DAS GROßE FRESSEN I (PIGGING OUT II)
Christmas Day itself started off pretty uneventful. I tidied up my room and we had a nice breakfast together. Julia, Sören and Peter went to clean the house that they’re renovating.

Marita and I went for a walk with the little Mats, which was nice. He really is an adorable kid. Very active, curious, intelligent and happy. Very rarely did he cry and doesn’t get restless easily.

For dinner, Marita served a meat fondue (i.e. a fondue pot with vegetable oil in the middle of the table and raw pork and steak to cook in it.) She also served rice filled grape leaves, pepperocinis, etc. Really good stuff.

Sören and I stayed up extra late and talked. It was very nice. We hadn’t really ever had time to get to know one another, so this was really welcomed by me.

It was so nice to just relax and enjoy others’ company for the holidays. People that genuinely care about you and who enjoy your company. I have to say that it was one of the nicest Christmases I’ve had in a very long time.


- posted by Matt @ 9:28 AM 0 comments

 
12/24 DAY 5: Christmas Eve, DAS GROßE FRESSEN I (PIGGING OUT I)
CHRISTMAS EVE

At the unlikely hour of 8:00 am, Marita was ready to go shopping for food for Christmas. I needed to buy some stuff for the portion that I was cooking. I threw on my smoky clothes from the previous night and we drove through the small, quiet village (population 2,000?) to the butcher shop and finally to Minimall, the cleverly named grocery store, to shop for groceries.


A typical German breakfast; cheese plate not shown

Upon returning, we ate breakfast. Then I hung out, which was a necessary, because after about after about a lengthy two hour wait, I was finally able to pry Julia out of the bathroom so I could shower and dress before church. I guess perfection needs time.

CHURCH

We showed up at the 3:00 pm service intended for the ever restless children. The 150 year old wooden church was packed.

The sermon was really nice. Very cute. The pastor explained that he had a special guest, a sheep, which he held. The sheep whispered the story of Christmas to him. (Which first ended up being a recitation of how cold it was and how delicious the hay was… then turned into a story of the baby Jesus who was born in Bethlehem.)

The congregation sang two songs which I didn’t remotely recognize, and without notes on bars, I couldn’t chime in. Oh, well, I stood and looked pretty.

The service lasted about 30 minutes at which time we left the cramped, baby-filled space. Peter and I hoofed it the half mile back home.

TEA TIME & THE TREE

Upon returning, we enjoyed a laid back tea, Julia’s home made Christmas cookies and various fancy locally produced chocolates and truffles. When Marita does something, she does it right. She set out her finest China (English pattern that she’s had for like 30 years.)


Opa and Oma at tea time

After tea, we then put up the Christmas tree together. Peter explained that the tradition required that we listen to Rolling Stones and sip bourbon. Fine by me.


The Christmas tree

Live Christmas trees in Europe are typically shorter and squatter. They are not placed in water, so they are short lived. The traditional trees have only candles and ornaments. Since we had a small child, we opted to put ONE generous 100 lightbulb strand onto the tree followed by about a dozen or so candles that would remain unlit until later, once the lil’un was in bed.

I thought the tree was pretty, especially with the candles. I didn’t go near the tree as I am especially clumsy.

We opened up presents. While people give one another presents, it’s not nearly as commercial as in the United States. Just a few small tokens.

I gave Julia the “bomber” imitation leather blanket that I had gotten her in the ‘States and lugged all over the Czech republic. She seemed very happy with it, as were Peter and Marita with their wine sacks and imported liquid libations.

The Weihnachtsman (i.e. “Christmas man”) was good to me, too. I got from Oma a book on Rome, from Peter/Marita a book on Europe and from Julia candy and a very classy travel journal.

CHRISTMAS MEAL & AFTERHOURS

Later that night, we pigged out for the first time in the ceremony they call “Christmas.” The appetizer was a smoked salmon. Oma had made a traditional Eastern Europe stuffed cabbage, which is eaten with a red horseradish sauce. Marita served turkey, cabbage filled apples, red, fried potatoes and a gravy. Kind of like a Germanized Thanksgiving meal. Again, thoroughly delicious.


My plate

The meal ended with some Schnapps and more white wine. Julia and Sören were tired and went to bed. Peter, Marita and I talked, catching up on our lives. Peter went to bed, then Marita talked in depth about Opa and Julia, as well as about relationships, etc. She’s like an aunt to me and I thoroughly enjoyed talking. Inevitably, the bottle of white wine emptied and we hugged and went to bed around 3:00 am.
- posted by Matt @ 9:24 AM 0 comments

 
DAY 4: Relaxing in Ilsede, Germany
I woke up around 8:00 and had breakfast with Julia and Mats, or “hurricane Mats” as I like to call him. At 14 months, he is extremely curious and has miniature hands into everything, especially things that he’s not suppose to find, like electric plugs and dust bunnies.


Peter and Mats

Mats is a thoroughly happy kid. His father’s DNA is most obvious in him, althought Julia claims that biologically, only 50.0000% of the genetic material is from Sören. I wonder.

After napping, I took a bath/shower (long story) and spent some quality time with Julia catching up on things. She endured some pictures from my laptop. We both agreed that ours is a friendship where we just pick up where we left off. Some alone time was really great.

SICKNESS AND A SPLASH OF DRAMA

Now, understand that Marita, Julia and Mats have all been sick. So, throughout my stay, They coughed a lot and were not to worried about washing their hands. The baby’s nose was like a faucet and he enjoyed putting his tiny fingers inside his nose or even enjoyed licking the delicious nectars of his snot from his nostrils. Everyone kissed the child on the lips.

As a sidenote, German refrigerators are small and food typically sits out.

I was SO afraid of getting cold but by God’s grace, I was not. Call it a Christmas miracle.

There is a bit of family drama, which I won’t get into. It has absolutely nothing to do with me, which is kind of a fresh idea as I’m usually the whipping boy in my US-based family.

I went with Peter to see the house that he is renovating, where Julia, Sören and the little Mats will eventually live. He’s got a lot of work ahead of him, but the place will really be nice at the end. We went into Peine (the largest city in the area, walked around in the cold while waiting for Sören to arrive by train, from Hanover.)

A TYPICAL GERMAN DINNER


Sören, Me, Marita and Peter

For supper, Marita made Leberkäse, Sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. Leberkäse, unlike the name implies, is NOT liver and it’s NOT cheese. It’s some kind of ground pork, kind of on the idea of meatloaf, but different spices, possibly different type of meats. Who knows. It was so delicious.


My plate

After supper, we watched a bit of TV. My German is holding up for the most part, which is always encouraging. If I really put my mind to it, I could be fluent at it; I’m just to lazy.

I bid my goodnight at 11:00 and went up to “my” room where I always sleep. I felt thoroughly at home.
- posted by Matt @ 9:22 AM 0 comments

 
DAY 3: PRAGUE, TRIP TO HANNOVER, GERMANY
MORNING

I finally was able to eat breakfast at the Pension. The brought what Americans would call a “lunchmeat plate” with salami, ham, cheese, etc. She brought a strong cappuccino, a mixed juice drink and a nice basket of bread and butter. Delicious and really very effective in expanding my waistline.

After breakfast, I ventured back out into the cold air. I couldn’t find my hat. The falling snow looked amazing against the old buildings.

Mats, Julia’s 14 month kid was intrigued by my laptop, and had the following to write about the event:

• “11111111111111111111111111111`1111111`1
• (2222222222```qq`qqxx”

I ventured across town to Wenceles Square again, and went to “the Down Towner” café (where I wrote yesterday’s update.)

I walked to the Jewish Quarter, saw the standard sites then decided I wanted to get out of the cold and eat. I found a small café that looked interesting. I hadn’t realized that it was a student bar until I was already inside. Dozens of 18 year old kids sat at long tables drinking beer and looking at each other’s cell phones and gabbing about “who liked whom.”

I found a small corner with a miniature table and stool. I ordered a beer, soup (warmth, thank God!), chicken with fries.

I was still cold, especially because I thought had lost my winter hat. I walked across the Vlata and up the walkway to the Prague Castle.

I had a cigarette at the wall of the castle, attempting to fend off the cold.



I was cold and because I hadn’t had beer in like 20 minutes, I searched out a place. So, I could have gotten a 90Kc (or $3.00) beer in the courtyard of the castle or I could go someplace else. I found a tiny café/bar just down from the hill that afforded beers that were 25Kc apiece.


Daniela and Kennedy

An African man and a Czech woman shared the table with me. Eventually, we started talking. They introduced themselves as Kennedy and Daniela and were visiting Prague briefly from Spain. Kennedy, the African, had not seen snow before. We had a nice chat. I realized that I had, in fact, taken too long. The hottie who served me beer served another. I paid, smiling and tipping the hottie extra generously.

I hurried across the Charles bridge and went to get a couple of gifts for friends back home before heading to get my bags and get to the airport.

FLIGHT AND AFTERHOURS

The evening flight to Germany was very uneventful. Sören, Julia’s husband, picked me up at the airport. We went to Panne’s place where they were celebrating his birthday with beer and schnapps. Mats, Marita and Julia were at home, resting from being cold.

Julia and Marita were awake when I arrived at their house, an hour later or so. They hugged me and went to sleep as Sören, Peter, Marita and Sören had to work the following morning.

INTRODUCING THE BUNDY FAMILY (i.e. The Balke Family)

Oh, Marita and Peter are the parents. Julia is the only child and she is married to Sören. Oma and Opa live nearby. You might hear talk of Birgett and Schmittel, the crazy aunt (Marita’s sister) and uncle. Their kids are Kristof and Jessica. Oh, almost forgot. Julia has a new 14 year old baby boy named “Mats.” The name is similar to mine and people confuse the names a lot. No. Not just a lot, but CONSTANTLY.
- posted by Matt @ 9:20 AM 0 comments

 
Pilsen
Greetings from Pilsen. I am here. I have a lot of stuff 10+ pages to post but I have no way of getting stuff from my Powerbook to a computer with a hookup.

And Czech keyboards are kinda tricky as there are a lot of keys with decorations over the letters.

Anywho. You§ll here from me soon.
- posted by Matt @ 8:38 AM 0 comments